If someone tells you that a great way to improve your skin is to puncture them a thousand times, you would not be held responsible for being skeptical. For one ouch . And secondly, should not we avoid being wounded (as in all living beings)?
But that's the deal with Microneedling, the trend method that dermatologists and beauty magazines cherish years ago – because it works. It's not cheap and not magical, but here's some more information you'll need before you hit holes in your face.
The science behind microneedling
As early as 1
"It's a very controlled injury," said dermatologist Sejal Shah, MD, after her assistant foamed Lidocain on my face, numbing me with it Shah explained that other procedures such as laser treatments and peels do the same, and these other treatments also hurt the surface of the skin, resulting in a much longer recovery time than with microneedles.
There is a lot of scientific research going on , which supports the use of microneedles: Alone it has been proven that they The appearance improves acne scars and wrinkles. It is also used in conjunction with skin products and medicines to improve conditions such as melasma (sunspots) and alopecia. Patients see measurably better results than with the products alone.
"They create micro-channels in the skin So you can bring products or ingredients directly into the deeper layers," says Dermatologist Doris Day
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A less measurable effect, like dermatologists like Day and Shah Anecdotal Report The procedure rejuvenates the skin.
"As you get older, the body's ability to produce collagen becomes easy," says Shah. Sun damage and lower estrogen levels contribute to reduced collagen production, and so our skin gradually loses its suppleness and begins to submit to gravity. Micronutras are a way to trigger the alarms in skin cells and replenish them, at least temporarily.
The In-Office Procedure
At Shah's I tried Vivace in the office, extending the microneedle process with broken radio frequencies. This essentially means that heat also comes from the needles. Shah explains that the heat goes deeper than the needles themselves, which the Vivace robotic arm introduces at depths of 0.5mm to 3.5mm.
Traditional Dermarollernadeln lie between 0.5 mm and 2 mm. The SkinPen, which Day likes to use because it has been approved by the United States Food and Drug Administration (FDA) for acne scars, ranges from 0.5 mm to 3 mm. With devices like the Vivace and SkinPen, the doctor can vary the depth depending on what he treats and what facial area he treats.
The real question in everyone's memory: How much do they do? Tiny needles hurt?
On Vivace, the most unpleasant part of my procedure was the numbing cream that made me feel strange and swollen, as if I'd been to the dentist. I could feel the needles so lightly when Shah worked on my forehead – the most sensitive area, thanks to the fact that it only covers your skull a bit, you know, but it never really hurt. I honestly used facial cleansers that stung more. After about 15 to 20 minutes, the good doctor was done, and an assistant wore an Avene tranquilizer to hydrate my skin.
After micro-refinement, dermatologists can add different products depending on what they are looking for. Antioxidants and retinoids would enhance the rejuvenating effect, as would PRP (platelet-rich plasma) – the so-called vampire facial, where the doctor takes a blood sample and passes it through a centrifuge and then applies it to the skin. 19659002] "Most of what you want to wear is very gentle, because it can be quickly absorbed through the skin," says Shah. "I do not do acids or vitamin C or anything that can irritate the skin."
Physicians also typically recommend three microneedling procedures to achieve real results (more for severe acne scars) and an occasional maintenance round. That's the only downside to this thing: the price. Vivace costs about $ 800- $ 850 per treatment, and conventional microneedles are about half of it.
The Home Alternative
Well, since you are perfectly fine with the concept of putting needles in your face, why not just try it at home? Well, for one, this is not a comparison of apples to apples. The rolls that are sold for home use are much flatter than those in the doctor's office, where the professionals are equipped with anesthetic cream and the right hygiene praesuses. "If there's a blunt needle on the device, you'll rub that blunt needle everywhere, and that can actually lead to scars because you're now causing blunt and no sharp injury," she says.
also the danger that the needles are contaminated with dirt and bacteria. We do not replace our toothbrushes and lipsticks often enough – can entrust us with sharp objects? As Dermaroller addresses these sanitary concerns at home, office procedures can be a smarter choice (and lead to better results).
However, if you take care of your device, a microeedling device at home can offer some benefits.
"The real purpose of these devices is to improve the penetration of products," says Shah. "They see improved skin, of course, because they make your products more effective."
When I dared look at myself in the bathroom mirror in Shah's office, I was relieved to see only a few red dots on my face that had disappeared that night when I saw my face rinsed out again. While the channels that made the needles were wide open for the first four to six hours, Shah advised me not to put anything else on my face. Afterwards, however, I was able to return to my typical skincare.
Traditional microwells have slightly longer downtime – depending on the depth of the treatment, some have almost three days of downtime, while others can heal more quickly. After the procedure, doctors usually advise against any make-up for 24 hours.
But the next morning I did not need make-up. I had no redness and my skin was glowing – even after five hours of flying that day. A week later, my skin texture was still softer and maybe even firmer, and my pores looked smaller. This was no wonder – I still have a line in the middle of my forehead, the first signs of laugh lines and the signs of my entire decade of teenage nagging.
"It will not be a facelift and it will not necessarily get going," says Day.
Well, there are always filters for that.
Sabrina Rojas Weiss lives in Brooklyn, surrounded by her freelance writers and competitive stroller pushers. Her work has been published on Refinery29, Yahoo, MTV News and Glamour.com. The views expressed herein are their own and are to be taken with a grain of salt. Follow her on Twitter @ shalapitcher .