For years I have had psoriasis on my body – typically on my knees and elbows . It was usually easy to apply topical treatment, to cover it up and forget about it. Two years ago, I got scaly patches on my face, and that was a whole different story.
While I wanted to get along as much as possible without makeup to keep my skin clean and product free, I knew I would feel better if I could hide my psoriasis on going out. And a quick application of a tinted moisturizer, followed by my trusted concealer pen, did not stop.
Psoriasis, a chronic skin condition, can cause red, scaly patches that can itch, tear and bleed. And if they are on your face, these patches can "complicate the even application of make-up," says . Sarika Ramachandran, Dermatology Lecturer at the Yale School of Medicine, SELF.  I do not have all the answers and there are still days when my skin is really unpredictable. But here are four tips that make it easier for me to apply make-up if I have psoriasis on my face.
. 1 Prepare the surface of your skin properly.
Psoriasis creates an uneven skin texture, so it's crucial to create a solid foundation for makeup. Dr. Ramachandran recommends starting with a good moisturizer to treat dryness and gently soften dandruff. I currently use Vanicream Lite Lotion $ 13, which is fast-absorbing, non-comedogenic and contains none of the common chemical irritants such as dyes, preservatives or fragrances.
The next step – as soon as your moisturizer has enough time to absorb, Dr. Ramachandran – depends on your personal preferences. I try not to apply prescribed topical treatments (such as low-potency corticosteroids, retinoids or synthetic vitamin D) to my face before applying make-up as they can cause irritation. In addition, they often have the form of an ointment, which makes the skin surface greasy and the application of the products is difficult. Instead, I prefer my treatments at bedtime.
If you treat your face topically in the morning, Dr. Ramachandran to let it work on before putting on make-up. Or, like me, you can keep your greasy treatments for bedtime evenings and apply creamy treatments in the morning.
. 2 Choose your wording carefully.
I've experimented with different types of primers and a liquid formulation is by far the best option for my skin. Makeup Artist Mindy Green always uses a liquid foundation on clients with psoriasis and applies them with a gentle "dab technique" or "dab technique". Think of the product as applying it to your face (as if you were applying small dots of color to a wall) instead of using broad, sweeping strokes that can irritate psoriasis lesions and inflame the skin.
Green recommends a ] Beautyblender sponge for all liquid products (foundation, highlighter and concealer) instead of a brush. However, if you prefer a brush, you should make sure it is very soft, as psoriasis prone skin must be treated with care.
On the other hand, the application of powders is usually difficult. "In general, it may be helpful not to apply powder directly to psoriatic lesions," agrees Dr. Ramachandran too. "Due to their flaky texture, it is difficult to directly apply powder-based products."
If you want to use a powder, applying it to a cream or liquid primer may be easier. And try Green's advice to get rid of the brush: "Powder will be less disturbing to the skin surface when applied with a beauty blender," she says.
. 3 Pay attention to the pigment content in your products.
The term "pigmentation" meant nothing to me before I got psoriasis on my face. Basically, it refers to the amount of opacity you can get for the amount of product you apply – and you want to achieve high opacity with the least amount of product possible to avoid worsening the area.
"If you need four coats As a concealer or foundation to successfully cover an area, it's probably not good enough," says makeup artist Allison Depriestre to SELF. "One or two thin layers should be pigmented enough to hide your psoriasis."
With Vichy Dermablend 3D Correction Oil-Free Foundation $ 29, I got good results, which Depriestre also strongly recommends. "It works amazingly with psoriasis," she says. "It covers the brightest red or pigmented skin colors, but also invigorates psoriasis-affected skin. It also contains anti-inflammatory ingredients and makes the skin look smoother. "It suggests Dermacolor as another brand with an outstanding pigment-to-thickness ratio.
If you do not want a strong makeup look Take on all your face (I have small patches of psoriasis on my cheeks, but the rest of my skin is flawless) take a two-pronged approach. "Remember that you have two different skin structures on your face that need different things," says Depriestre. To make the make-up look natural, she suggests using a light foundation on the entire face, including areas of psoriasis, and then applying a highly pigmented concealer to the psoriatic lesions. Melt the edges with the rest of your face. Then mix something else. The idea is to hide problem areas without creating a mask.
. 4 Be prepared for a few attempts.
Like anyone else with psoriasis or chronic skin conditions, over the years I've tried dozens of make-up and skincare products, and I'm excited about any "miracle" cream, foundation or concealer that promises to restore my complexion to its former glory (before psoriasis). Most of them fail and I am frustrated.
The same is true of make-up techniques, which in theory often work better than in practice, for example, applying green color-correcting concealer to patches of psoriasis. Instead, Depriestre recommends choosing a corrector in a color that is a bit more natural or slightly darker in color, and then add another corrector layer in a shade lighter than your natural skin color. "This will do the trick and is much easier to master," she says, though it is necessary to have two products in different shades.
Every now and then something works. It is not magic (unfortunately there is no cure for psoriasis), but it is good enough. This is the time to make purchases. The last thing you want to do is find something that works really well for you, just so it's out of stock or no longer available. "Skin prone to reactions loves regularity. If you find something that works, stick with it, "says Depriestre.
Ultimately, I would like to get to a place where I do not feel I have to hide my psoriasis because it's just another part of me. And I have days when I do not mind getting freshened. But on other days, I feel safer when I apply make-up effectively, when I look in the mirror and step out into the world.